The 2021 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett is precise and stony on the intense and well-concentrated nose that shows ripe lemon and coolish gravel aromas. Lush, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a pure and salty, tensioned, piquant and grippy Riesling with mouth-filling fruit and juiciness. Not really a Kabinett but a feinherb Spätlese in style, this is a long-distance runner with lovely digestibility. 9% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Tasted in July 2022.

VDP Grosse Lage. Historic and recultivated vineyard with slightly younger vines (15 to 35 years old). Warm loessy soils and a southern exposure lend the Krötenpfuhl its distinctive supple elegance. The most floral of the crew with jasmine and orange blossom, spring grass and the traditional range of orchard fruit. Juicier on the palate than the Klamm, more expressive and approachable, like a warm hug. Balance and creamy noblesse with a gorgeous savoury finish. (PS)