High-toned, distillate-like herbal extracts along with ripe fresh strawberry, apple and quince inform the scintillating nose and electrical charged palate of Donnhoff’s 2011 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese. “We were able to just keep waiting on this site,” he explains, “so that even this lightest wine from the Brucke was picked only in the last days of (regular) harvest.” Hints of pits and seed, along with black tea, nut oils, zesty citrus, and myriad mineral impingements add to a sense of quickening that goes well beyond mere invigoration in this gem’s strikingly persistent, shimmeringly vibrant finish. I was left with salivary glands palpitating and arms covered in gooseflesh. It will probably be hard to resist such a wine at any point over the next quarter century, but those with the requisite remaining life expectancy should make an effort to defer for the duration the pleasure of at least the last bottle or two. David Schildknecht

Struggling for descriptive terms I am finally happy with the word delicious. A composition of grace and purity. I should write an inspiring poem here about fruit orchard fragrance, animating acidity and sheer harmony, but the poet laureate I am not. Michael Schmidt