From 40+-year-old vines on weathered sandstone soils, the 2020 Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg GG opens with a clear, fresh and elegant bouquet of ripe, bright fruits. Full-bodied, intense and mineral on the palate, this is a pure fresh, straight and fruity yet also complex and sustainable Riesling with a long and tensioned, clear and polishing finish with lingering salinity. The 2020 has a lot of expression but is still youthful and will gain complexity, finesse and elegance as it ages in the bottle. 13% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July and again six weeks later in Wiesbaden in August 2021.

The soil at the Mühlenberg is variegated sandstone which, in my limited experience, seems to express itself in extra complexity and diversity of aromas. The 2020 Grosses Gewächs starts off with a delightful expression of fresh yellow fruit, which is perfectly complemented by a crisp appley acidity as well as cool stony and salty mineral nuances. A gentle floral element softens the impact and puts an appealing seductive spin on the finish. (MS)