The 2021 Felseneck GG is a wild expression of crushed flint and slate stones, herbs, green leaves, chamomile and lime zests along with iodine notes of lemon juice. Full-bodied but rich and very elegant on the palate, this is a pure, crystalline, sharp and dense laser sword of a dry Riesling that many might call too ascetic for now, but the richness, intensity, concentration and balance are just perfect to guarantee long bottle aging. The tannins are fine and intermingled with salts and extract, power and richness and the character of crushed stones. Very long, intense, concentrated and rich, this is a legend in the making. Tasted as a sample at the domaine in July 2022.

Alluring aromas of flint, smoke and ripe fruit. Juicy and nuanced palate of lime and stone. A bit more concentration and cream gather along the edges for those looking for a bit of body or the occasional curve. And then a surprisingly elegant grip takes hold, pulling back the curtain to reveal a powerful, storm-like momentum crashing onto the shoreline behind, beneath and all around. Just as suddenly the curtain drops, the storm clouds disperse and it's all friendly Riesling sunshine. For now. (PS)

AP number 24 22. Where the Frühlingsplätzchen is typically spring-like, this is darker and more rocky, more smoky/mineral and the fruit seems riper, with a suggestion of passion fruit. Attractively sulphidic – veering towards struck match – without being excessively so. Yet the crisp grapefruit and lemon of Riesling is clear on the palate and adds a backbone that the complexity hangs on. Terrific wine. (JH)