Penetratingly high-toned scents and concentrated palate presence of lemon and tangerine, mint-infused quince jelly and honey are complemented by inner mouth perfume of gentian and smoky black tea. Nips of crystallized ginger and candied lemon rind lend invigoration to a richly- yet vibrantly-sustained finish that leaves my tongue quivering and my salivary glands palpitating. Fascinatingly, the feel here is quite firm, which along with the wine’s sheer density and efficacious acidity suggests slow but impressive development in bottle. Alas, a mere 90 liters of this elixir were produced.

The 2017 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling is still a bit oaky at this early moment but clear, bright and fresh on the nose. The attack on the palate is quite racy, but this lean and elegant Rüdesheim Riesling is a densely woven, tight and concentrated, very mineral and crunchy Berg Schlossberg with a piquant and tightly woven finish. This promising 2017 is far too young to be enjoyed in the next five years.