Fricke's 2011 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling – from old massale selection vines – was assembled from three casks which, as she relates, “I stopped in their fermentation where I thought each tasted harmoniously dry.” When the result was analyzed, it harbored 23 grams of residual sugar, yet – in contrast with how the 2009 at 28 grams behaved – still tastes essentially dry. That said, there is levity here and a reinforcement of white peach and citrus fruits that would be harder to achieve in an analytically dry wine. Crushed stone and smoke accents to pineapple, pink grapefruit, passion fruit and lychee make for colorful counterpoint on a lusciously juicy, if fundamentally, firm mid-palate. Oily, piquant accents of citrus rind are well- integrated in a sappy and persistent finish. One effect of around a third botrytis-affected fruit is a slight sense of opacity and blurring in the finish, even though it is gripping and projects a sort of cyanic glow. I would plan to follow this through 2017.
David Schildknecht (Wine Advocate #212, Apr 2014)
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