Seedy huckleberry, seed-tinged apple and chalky suffusion combine for a performance of pithy, piquant concentration. The texture is firm and the overall impression formidable, but even with a finishing rush of apple and lemon juiciness, somewhat austere. I miss the textural allure and salinity of this wine’s Kirchspiel counterpart, or what I termed the “unusual animation and transparency” exhibited by its vintage 2016 predecessor. Possibly I tasted it at an awkward moment; even so, I would be inclined to wait before popping more than the first cork.

To be bottled August 2018. 41-year-old vines, 3.5 t/ha. Mineral spice dominates the nose at the moment though there’s no lack of citrus precision. As it opens, the fruit seems riper, almost a touch exotic – orange and pawpaw, even passion fruit. Then tighter on the palate, much more mineral and upright but has striking power that builds across the palate. Still has the saltiness of Kirchspiel but more spice, power rather than intensity. So long. I thought I could see some SO2 here but Klaus Peter Keller says free SO2 is around 20-25 mg/l (added November). Sounds odd but I find something like hay on the finish. (JH)