2004 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a huge, dense wine that explodes from the glass with tar, smoke, earthiness black cherries and minerals. The wine possesses dazzling concentration and tons of richness, as waves of fruit coat the palate in stunning style. This big, dramatic Brunello needs time in bottle, but it is nothing short of magnificent today. The balance, and the integration of the French oak in particular, is brilliant. For those who are curious to try a bottle now, the wine should be opened a few hours in advance as the tannins are imposing at this stage. This is a rare Brunello of superb pedigree and complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Antonio Galloni)

Sweet cherry on the nose, with a hint of flowers and new oak. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. Powerful and rich for the vintage. A new wine from the master of Brunello. Best after 2011. 500 cases made. (James Suckling)

Licorice, earth and spice aromas with black mushrooms. Floral and multidimensional. Medium to full body. Juicy tannins. Complex and savory. Changes all the time. Drink or hold.

Pacenti's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is just as gorgeous as it has always been. Silky, perfumed and super-expressive, the 2004 is at a glorious peak of expression. Layers of fruit grow in the glass as the wine continues to flesh out with air. Vivid, layered and poised, the 2004 is a terrific example of the Pacenti style at its best.

After Giancarlo Pacenti took over from father Siro in 1988, he moved from big oak vats to smaller casks for ageing, 'not for oak flavours but for its smoothing effect on wines'. His wines are always lively, and his 2004 Brunello has plenty of life ahead, its Sangiovese fruit softest and most expressive if decanted. A modernist meditation wine. Drinking Window 2021 - 2035
Blind tasted by Monty Waldin (at Montalcino, 28 Oct 2020)
Part of Brunello di Montalcino 2004: a retrospective