Conterno’s 1989 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is darker in color and fresher than the 1990. Sweet mentholated, balsamic aromatics meld gracefully into an expressive, layered core of dark fruit. The 1989 is a big, expansive Granbussia that takes time to reveal its qualities in full, but it is a remarkable wine for the integrity of its fruit, the finesse of its tannins and its sumptuous overall balance. It remains a benchmark wine for Conterno and the appellation. Curiously, two bottles I tasted at the estate were more forward than several I have had in the US recently. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. These two fabulous Barolos from Aldo Conterno reflect a highly successful period in the estate’s history. The winery, formally known as Poderi Aldo Conterno, traces its history back to 1969 when brothers Aldo and Giovanni Conterno divided their family’s estate in Monforte. Each of the two brothers kept a portion of wines then in bottle, demijohn or cask, which explains the existence of pre-1969 Aldo Conterno bottles. Aldo Conterno has an unusual background for a Piedmontese winemaker of his generation because he lived in the US for a few years in the 1950s. After the passing of his American uncle, Conterno actually spent two years in the US military. Upon his return he most certainly was a changed person. Aldo’s vision had been to make a more accessible style of Barolo than that his family made at the time at their estate (Giacomo Conterno). Aldo’s top Barolo, Granbussia, is a blend of three vineyards; 70% Romirasco, 15% Colonello, 15% Cicala, and is only made in top vintages that present perfect growing conditions in all three sites. The component wines are fermented separately in steel, then aged in cask for three years, prior to being moved into steel for a further two years before bottling. To the best of my knowledge, no other winery leaves their Barolos so long in steel prior to bottling, but Aldo Conterno believes steel helps him keep the wine fresh, much as the demijohn did in a previous era.

The 1989 Riserva Gran Bussia is nearly perfection. My notes included such words as "magnificent," "awesome," "frightening extract levels," "decadent," and "opulent." Not much more can be said, other than this wine is even richer, more aromatically compelling, and longer than the other three 1989 Conterno offerings. Every Italian wine authority, from the late Sheldon Wasserman, to Burton Anderson, to Victor Hazan, to Roberto Parkero, considers Aldo Conterno to be one of the great masters of his craft. The staggering display of wines he produced in 1989 and 1990 confirmed that no one in Piedmont is making greater Barolo than Aldo Conterno and his sons. If you love great wine, these are must purchases; if you love Barolo, a pilgrimage to your favorite Italian wine shop is in order! It is virtually impossible to pick a favorite among Conterno's 1989s and 1990s. However, the 1990s, which are not yet bottled, appear even more massive, structured, and tannic than the flamboyant, super-concentrated, flashy 1989s. Readers should keep in mind that the Barolo-Riserva Gran Bussia is released a year later than the other Barolos, so the 1989 will not appear in the marketplace until spring, 1995, and the 1990 a year later. Wine enthusiasts throughout the world should be beating a path to their retailers to buy the 1989s and to reserve the 1990s when they arrive next year. By the way, Aldo Conterno is one of Piedmont's sweetest people, proving that sometimes nice guys do finish first! Importer: Vias Imports, Great Neck, NY.

After 18-years this is still frighteningly tight on the nose with black olives, black cherries, kirsch and dates. The palate is ever so slightly stewed, quite low in acidity, very supple, but is lacking a little backbone. What you might call a -slutty- Barolo, strangely dichotomous to what the nose promises. I can see why my esteemed colleagues love this wine, but my own palate preferred other Tuscans poured over lunch. Tasted December 2007.