The 2008 Barolo San Rocco bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark fruit, mocha, tar, smoke and licorice. The San Rocco is much more full-bodied and overtly intense than the Margheria in what is a very classic expression of this Serralunga site. Dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar wrap around the building, muscular finish. In 2008 the San Rocco is big, dark and flat-out delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. The 2008s from Azelia pick up where the 2007s left off, which is to say at a high level. The harvest for the Nebbiolo took place between October 12 and 25, very much on the late side. The 2008s have great acidity, expressive bouquets and intense structures, all typical of the best wines of the year. Azelia remains one of the under-the-radar jewels of Piemonte. The wines have been terrific for some time, and prices are exceedingly fair considering the quality of what goes into the bottle. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887, Giuliana Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 547-6343, Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (800) 322-3742, Selected Brands, Deerfield Beach, FL; tel. (954) 428-0019

Good medium red. Ripe aromas of red cherry, cinnamon and minerals. At once silky and firm, with intense inner-mouth floral perfume to its dark fruit and mineral flavors. Compellingly sweet, dense wine that needs at least several more years in bottle to reveal its inherent complexity. Tannins are quite suave for a Serralunga Barolo.