Brovia's 2008 Barolo Garblet Sue bursts from the glass with a heady array of black fruit, smoke, incense and licorice. The Garblet Sue, from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard in Castiglione, is usually a much more linear, tense Barolo, but in 2008 the wine has gorgeous inner perfume allied to a level of pure juiciness that rounds out some of the rough edges that are at times present in this bottling. A huge finish laced with iron, asphalt and crushed rocks rounds things out in style. This is a super-classic Barolo from Brovia.

(from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard in Castigione Falletto): Full deep red. Black raspberry, coffee and smoky minerality on the nose. Sweet in the middle but youthfully closed, hinting at dark fruits, licorice and menthol. Shows a more rustic tannic structure than the Rocche and Villero bottlings today. This youthfully tough Barolo will need at least eight years of cellaring.