Conterno-Fantino's 2004 Barolo Sorì Ginestra captures the essence of this great vintage. Exotic orange peel, spices, cedar, dark plum and menthol meld together in a big, structured Barolo endowed with considerable depth, power and enough structure to drink well for another decade or perhaps more.

Conterno-Fantino have once again produced one of the vintage’s finest wines with their stunning 2004 Barolo Sori Ginestra, which is just as impressive in bottle as it has been on the several occasions I have tasted it from barrel. This explosive, heady Barolo bursts onto the palate with seamless layers of ripe dark fruit, black cherries, menthol, cinnamon, pine and minerals, revealing profound depth and richness. It offers superb length, gorgeous, sweet tannins and a finish that lasts forever. Although it is a surprisingly accessible Sori Ginestra at this stage, I expect it will close down at some point in the near future. Readers who have an opportunity to taste this wine in the next few months should not hesitate to do so. This is a remarkable Barolo in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

Saturated red-ruby color. Great purity of fruit on the nose, which combines raspberry, minerals, rose petal, truffle and vanilla; this shut down quickly with air. Dense, sappy and primary, with superb intensity and lift in the middle palate. Floral and minty nuances contribute to the impression of youthful vibrancy. The sappy, spicy, rising finish boasts outstanding length, great floral lift and noble tannins. A real Barolo knockout. Sure it's young and destined to be long-lived, but this is balanced from the outset.