Gaja’s 1978 Barbaresco was a stunning wine with which to open our foray into the Barolos and Barbarescos of this historic vintage. The Pinot-like aromas alone were captivating, but the wine was even better on the palate, where silky tannins framed a gorgeous core of red fruit, flowers, licorice and tar. This was by far the best bottle of this wine I have ever had.

1978 Gaja Barbaresco-Dark red. Gaja's 1978 Barbaresco is a study in contrasts. The nose suggests a mature wine, with aromas of leather and cocoa dominating, although on the palate the wine shows generous amounts of dark fruit in a concentrated style with much persistence, length and the structure of the vintage. My impression is of a beautiful wine that lacks the balance to be a truly great wine. 92/drink now-, 02/06

First vintage where barriques were used. Mid bricky garnet. Nose-clearing purity – liquorice, black olive, dark toffee. But there’s also herbs and garrigue. Some undergrowth but less evident than on the 88. So fine and scented. More fragrant on the mid palate as if the fruit is coming out again and back to youth, a process that is even more evident on the 74. Wonderful freshness and lovely elegant lingering finish. (JH)