I remember paying what at the time seemed like a small fortune for bottles of Giacosa's 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto at Peck's Enoteca in Milan. What I would give today to be able to buy more at the same tariff! The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto is one of Bruno Giacosa's most towering wines. Period. Rich, layered and opulent, this mineral-driven, powerful Barolo covers every inch of the palate with masses of dark fruit, smoke, soy, plums, menthol, dried roses, pine and a host of other balsamic overtones. This vivid, kaleidoscopic Barolo is a reference-point wine readers won't want to miss. As always, the Riserva Falletto is virile and authoritative in tone. Simply put, it its profound

In 1990, Giacosa's Barolos are full-bodied, backward, and concentrated, as well as admirably rich and intense. The 1990 Barolo Falletto di Serralunga Riserva (red label) is huge, massively proportioned, thick, and muscular. It will not be released until late 1995 or early 1996. Readers who adore Bruno Giacosa's faithful adherence to traditionally styled Barolo will be thrilled by this wine. Giacosa has always produced some of Italy's greatest Barolos. Made in an enlightened traditional style and meant for long-term cellaring, these can be austere and backward early in life. Yet they are sure bets to develop magnificently, usually peaking at age 15 or 20. It is refreshing that Bruno Giacosa, the quiet and dignified winemaking genius of Neive, is the least promotion-conscious winemaker in Italy. Justifiably, he prefers to let his wines do the talking for him. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY.