Manzone’s 2004 Barolo Le Gramolere reveals gorgeous notes of candied cherries, spices and menthol in an elegant, sweet expression of this vineyard. It offers greater freshness than the Castelletto, with notable vibrancy to its generous fruit. The finish is delicate and long, as ethereal aromas linger in the empty glass. The Gramolere was aged predominantly in 500 liter barrels with 15-20% of the juice seeing larger 20-hectoliter barrels. It is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this small, artisanal producer. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This is a very strong set of releases from Giovanni Manzone. I have always found an element of rusticity here, but the 2004s may well signal a move towards more elegant, refined Barolos. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

(the cru bottlings here are aged mostly in tonneaux Good full medium red. Somewhat high-toned aromas of strawberry and iron, with a suggestion of nutty oak. Juicy, floral and high-toned, with impressive concentration and richness and a rather powerful structure. Finishes long and penetrating. This will need several years in bottle-as do all of these crus from high-altitude sites.