From the moment we put together this tasting, I knew the 2010 Barolo had to be in the lineup because of its historical significance. It is arguably the greatest wine ever made here. Although naturally very young, the 2010 is super-expressive and also one of the clear highlights of the evening. All the elements simply fall into place. The interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure is utterly captivating. In many ways, the 2010 represents a culmination of all the work Maria Teresa Mascarello and her team have done over the last two decades to elevate quality. The gentleman to my left tells me I made a mistake in my initial review and score of the 2010. I agree.

From one of the denomination's leading traditional producers, this gorgeous, elegant Barolo opens with floral aromas of dried rose petals, woodland berries, leather, spice and whiffs of balsamic herbs. The palate seamlessly combines crisp, red cherry-berry fruit, white pepper and mint balanced by firm but polished tannins and bright acidity. Full of finesse, it will age majestically. Drink after 2020. Kerin O'Keefe

A floral-, cherry- and berry-laced version, delicate and lively, with mineral and spice accents. The texture is supple, with a glycerol feel. Borders on racy, with woodsy and mineral notes emerging on the pleasantly long finish. BS

The 2010 Barolo is a singularly elegant expression that benefits from extremely long maceration time (up to 54 days) and a non-interventionists’ winemaking philosophy. The wine is superb in its elegance and finesse that caresses the palate in the most delicate and ethereal manner imaginable. Small fruit tones are enhanced by ash, crushed mineral, licorice and dried mint. Because of changes in how Barolo can be labeled, the wine no longer carries the names of the four single-vineyards that make up the traditional blend for this wine (Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di La Morra). Instead, this historic wine is now labeled straightforward “Barolo.” Drink: 2017-2038. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Bright medium cherry-red. Burgundian red fruits, minerals, rose petal and blood orange on the nose, plus a hint of cotton candy. Pure and penetrating but utterly seamless, showing a plush texture and terrific lift to its flavors of red cherry, raspberry, cranberry, rose petal and minerals. Subtle rather than particularly powerful, but the brilliantly vibrant finishing flavors stain the palate on the building, finely tannic back end. Wonderfully elegant wine: surprisingly accessible today but sure to be a cellar treasure.

Just mid ruby with orange-tinged rim. Markedly spicy, a little jammy and then quite light and fragrant and sweet. Great tactile gripping tannins and a perfect dose of acidity. Just a tiny bit bitter on the finish. (WS)