The 2014 Barolo Monprivato is one of the finest Barolos I have tasted from the Mascarello family in a number of years. That is all the more remarkable considering a challenging growing season in which conditions were so tough that Mauro Mascarello did not want to show me his vineyard that summer. In the glass, though, the 2014 is gorgeous. Perfumed, bright and gracious, the 2014 captures all the best that was possible. Sage, mint, lavender and dark red/purplish berries add nuance to this super-expressive, transparent Barolo. Although the 2014 is not an epic Monprivato, it is a very beautiful wine. More importantly, let's hope it represents a return to the level of quality that was the norm at this reference-point estate up until 2009.

Aromas of woodland berry, wild herb, violet and camphor mingle together in the glass. Elegantly structured and boasting great intensity, the vibrant palate delivers crushed strawberry, cranberry, orange zest and licorice set against tightly wound but extremely refined tannins. Firm acidity provides the backbone and impeccable balance while a mineral note lends tension. Some may find this almost too ethereal, but others will be dazzled. Drink 2024–2034. Kerin O'Keefe

Mascarello's legendary cru, from this historic 15-acre, southwest-facing plot not far from the town of Castiglione Falletto, never disappoints. The 2014 Barolo Monprivato is as engaging and as individual as I had hoped it would be. Still in its youth, the bouquet reaches out with wild berry and strawberry, and it has started to show unique tones of natural rubber, tropical fruit and peach—not at all what you might expect from a Nebbiolo, but very delicate and elegant nonetheless. Like every Monprivato vintage, it will take years in the bottle to reach its full potential. Still very closed, this one will only just begin to open after the summer. ML

Suave and silky in texture, this red sports cherry, strawberry, rose and graphite aromas and flavors, with a hint of wild herbs. Balanced and lacy, ending long and harmonious.