The 2017 Barolo Margheria is a compelling, multi-faceted Barolo loaded with personality. Sage, mint, lavender, spice, iron and red/purplish berry fruit grace this firm, classically built Barolo. This translucent, taut Barolo has so much to offer, but it also needs time to soften. Readers will find a terrific example of Margheria.

More subdued aromatically speaking, the Massolino 2017 Barolo Margheria is timid on first nose and takes longer to open. I coaxed the wine in my glass for a while before getting a fuller picture of red and purple fruits, grilled herb, limestone and a spicy hint of white peppercorn. I remember the cooler 2016 vintage as beautifully exuberant and expressive overall, whereas this 2017 edition has a quieter personality.

Serralunga d’Alba. A high, sandy site that’s steep and faces south-west. Their most open wine from the oldest vines of their estate. Planted 1958. Very white soil. 5,500 bottles produced. Rich nose. Undergrowth notes. Sweet and lifted. Almost candified. Flirtatious. Lifted finish. Much less drying than the 2019. Quite juicy. (JR)

Serralunga d'Alba. Youthful mid ruby. Sweetly concentrated cherry fruit that is still a little subdued and with a hint of old leather. Great purity of cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruit on the palate. Lift and juiciness followed by a firm layer of sandy tannins. Quite a pretty wine with lots of freshness, which can be approached now. (WS)