The 2004 Barolo Bussia is a superb example of Parusso’s philosophy. An array of spices, roasted coffee beans, plums, prunes and toasted oak flavors emerge from this pretty, layered Barolo. As it sits in the glass it gains volume and weight, with attractive mentholated, balsamic notes that add further complexity. Despite its depth and power, the wine remains graceful and light on its feet, showing terrific poise and balance. Sweet notes from the oak frame the long lingering finish. I tasted this alongside the 2001 and found a slight preference for the older vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.

Marco Parusso aims to make elegant Barolos that emulate much of what he admires among his favorite Burgundy producers. The fruit gets a 2-3 day cold soak to allow the grapes to recover from what Parusso describes as the shock of being harvested. The wines are fermented at a lower temperatures than is the norm here in order to preserve freshness. Parusso works with natural yeasts and minimal amounts of SO2, leaving the wines on their lees for 16-18 months, another practice that is uncommon in these parts. As was the case throughout the region, the harvest was fairly late by today’s standards and the last of the Nebbiolo was brought in towards the end of October.
-Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate #174 Dec 2007