Another super-expressive wine, the 2013 Barolo Bussia is full of personality. Like all of these 2013s, the Bussia needs time to shed some baby fat. Today, the interplay of lifted aromatics and textured, layered fruit is compelling. Even with all of its richness, the 2013 stays light on its feet.

The 2013 Barolo Bussia is my favorite wine among Marco Parusso's new releases. This wine shows an extraordinary level of richness and softness that speaks to the unique winemaking style proposed by this innovative producer. The Bussia cru tends to produce softer and finer fruit characteristics. The bouquet delivers elegant notes of wild berry, forest floor and white truffle with mineral notes such as pencil shaving delicately tucked in at the back. The wine sees up to 60% stem inclusion and maceration times are long. This Barolo is articulate and profoundly expressive.

Monforte d’Alba. Tasted blind. Concentrated ruby. Almost exotic cherry nose that is still a little reductive. Very lifted and bright with notes of oak, cherry and cassis. Unusual and certainly modernist, but it works. Lots of tannins on the finish to chew on. Enormous length. (WS)

Monforte d’Alba. Pale garnet. Savoury, slightly chestnut nose. Very charming but not very typical. (JR)