Rinaldi's 2018 Barolo Brunate is one of the more satisfying wines of the vintage. Austere, medium in body and classic in feel, with that extra bit of textural resonance that is such a Brunate signature, the 2018 has real potential. Dark cherry, melted road tar, tobacco, spice, menthol, sage and licorice all build in the glass. The 2018 is going to need a few years to soften and start hitting its stride, but all the ingredients are there. It's a powerhouse, that much is certain.

Barolo. 15% Le Coste, 'the most sandy of our vineyards and hence in this rainy spring had less problems with peronospora . The Brunate vineyard is shell-shaped and hence a little humid, and is always hit a little more [by peronospora]. The fruit is always a little better, but Le Coste is easier to manage in years like 2018.' A distinctly perfumed nose and a little fuller than the Tre Tine with a layer of savoury spice underpinning the fruit. Becomes more complex with aeration, but this is far from ready. Sappy, nervy fruit but still compact. Fantastic balance and fine but firm tannins, which are super-elegant while coating the fruit. Very long and transparent. (WS)