Excellent deep red-ruby color. The nose began a bit reduced, then opened spectacularly to show red berries, black licorice, chestnut, brown spices, truffle, mocha and minerals, along with a suggestion of surmaturite Less obviously fleshy than the Brunate but already quite expressive despite its rather primary cherry fruit, with snappy acidity accentuating the wine's inner-mouth floral character. The tannins here are chewy, ripe and wonderfully suave for so-called old-style Barolo. I find this utterly compelling. Cannubi becomes more floral with aging and gains in length, says Rinaldi, while the Brunate takes on a stronger tar-and-chocolate character.

2004 Barolo Cannubi (San Lorenzo)/Ravera—The 2004 Cannubi(San Lorenzo)/Ravera represents a return to classicism and proportion in its beautiful, perfumed nose of violets, tar and minerals, which followed by sweet red fruit on a medium-bodied frame. Offers excellent potential. (90-93), 11/05