Luciano Sandrone’s 1998 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is another of the standouts in this tasting. Layers of perfumed dark fruit flow effortlessly from the glass with wonderful depth and purity. The wine offers a long, intensely harmonious personality and a refined, aristocratic finish. The 1998 is an excellent choice for readers who may also be cellaring bottles of the 1996 or the 1999, two wines that offer considerable upside potential. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

The deep ruby/purple-colored 1998 Barolo Cannubi Boschis boasts a spectacular bouquet of mineral-infused black cherry liqueur, new saddle leather, and pain grille. This powerful, ripe 1998 offers full-bodied flavors, silky tannin, low acidity, gorgeous levels of glycerin, and a creamy mouthful of complex, layered, superbly pure Nebbiolo fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Impressive red-ruby color. Reticent, slightly reduced nose opens quickly to show tangy spices, minerally soil tones, woodsmoke and a note of underbrush. Then juicy and vibrant in the middle palate, with a dense minerally character and the harmonious ripe acidity of the finest '98s; a velvety wine with great verve. Boasts a strong, ripe flavor of red fruit syrup and an incipient truffley perfume. The sweet fruit outlasts the substantial tannins on the long, lively finish.