One of the more purely sensual wines in this range, the 1999 Barolo Sarmassa possesses stunning depth, power and richness, all supported by sweet, silky tannins. Freshly cut flowers, sweet spices, dark red fruit, licorice and leather are some of the many nuances that emerge from a kaleidoscopic Barolo endowed with magnificent clarity, precision and pedigree. Expressive, perfumed overtones are woven throughout. What a gorgeous wine this is.

(bottled entirely in magnums) Saturated medium ruby. Superripe aromas of raspberry, minerals, dried rose, bitter chocolate and roasted oak, complicated by tangy spices and hints of exotic fruit. Lush, suave and very deep, with superb fruit intensity and sheer density of material (Voerzio says the yield here was just 22 hectoliters per hectare). The powerful but fine tannins saturate the palate, but arrive quite late, allowing the fruit to blossom on the back.

The 1999 Barolo Sarmassa is complete, with licorice, caramel and chocolate aromas, much length and vigor on the palate, substantial depth and concentration, and a texture which indicates that some time will be needed. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620