Bold cherry, dried raspberry and myrtle add to the intensity and the brightness of the bouquet. The Altesino 2016 Brunello di Montalcino displays a lively and fruit-forward ensemble with an infectious and cheerful sense of energy. This is a tonic and crisp expression of Sangiovese with lifted berry aromas backed by subtle spice, tar and licorice gained over two years of barrel aging. This is a 110,000-bottle release (and a good buy for Brunello).

Remarkably pretty and poised yet packed full of potential, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino lifts with grace and elegance, showing dusty roses, wild strawberry, white smoke and hints of wet stone. It’s silky and refined, with cooling acids and minerals giving way to savory red berries and spice. Energy remains high, even as fine tannins create a classically dry and youthful expression, tapering off to violet florals, mocha and a hint of licorice that seems to linger for well over a minute. This is deceptively drinkable today, yet it has all of the necessary components to gain in weight and complexity over a decade or more of cellaring.

Mid ruby. Sweet and spicy, ripe and generous and a little bit savoury. Rounded texture and sweet-fruited. Lots of pleasure and good length. (JH)

Just mid ruby. Balsamic cherry nose with hints of sweet spice. Supple sweet-sour cherry fruit with hints of gingerbread and soft chewy tannins. Already quite accessible. (WS)