Packaged with its distinctive black label, the Poggio Antico 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals an accessible or open-knit character that is commonly found in wines from this scorching hot and dry growing season, even in the Riservas that are built for long aging. Despite those aspirations, I would recommend a near or medium-term drinking window for this bold Sangiovese that is laced with ripe cherry, baked plum, balsam herb and cured tobacco. Indeed, very few producers took the courageous decision to produce a Riserva in 2017. The wine shows soft tannins and a note of fruity sweetness on the finish. Production is 9,000 bottles.

Deep ruby with orange tinges. Savoury and sweet spice notes hovering over sour cherry and cherry liqueur and with a hint of pine. Rich but with some tangy acidity and quite mouth-filling. Loads of gravelly tannins that are a tiny bit demanding right now. Not enormously complex but certainly consumer-friendly. (WS)