Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and menthol meld together in the 2014 Baffonero, Rocca di Frassinello's 100% Merlot. There is good freshness and brightness to the fruit, although the oak is overpowering. I would drink the 2014 sooner rather than later given its mid-weight structure.

All-Merlot product of the ambitious Rocca di Frassinello estate near Gavorrano aimed at producing a rival to Masseto. Rather opulent nose but not too sweet. Floral nose. Really rather impressive. Refined tannins and, perhaps, the same cooper as Ch Lafite which is heavily cited in the literature as a partner, with Castellare of Chianti. Fresh and with real persistence. Just a little furry sweetness on the end after a while but there is masses of pleasure without exaggeration here. (JR)