Very dark garnet with saturated purple hues. Penetrating aromas of underbrush, sweet tobacco and wild mushroom. Quite juicy, but also sumptuous and deep, with rich flavors of mocha, espresso and anise over a firm mineral backbone. There is no evidence of excess weight in spite of the wine generous structure. The long close features glossy tannins and a flavor of cassis. At once powerful and elegant. Among the largest producers in Montalcino, Castello Banfi is arguably the one making the best Brunellos today, with a remarkable string of successes since 1990.

Dark ruby-garnet. Aromas of blackberry, coffee bean and meat. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Big and racy. Still needs some bottle age.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2009. 32,500 cases made. –JS

The internationally-styled, dark ruby/garnet-colored 1997 Brunello di Montalcino is somewhat one-dimensional, offering straightforward aromas of sweet new oak, black cherries, and currant fruit. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied and clean with a modest finish. There is sweet fruit, but little complexity, depth, or length. However, it is one of the finest wines this estate has yet produced. Drink it over the next decade. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY; tel. (516)626-9200