Biondi-Santi’s 1969 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has aged gracefully. Dried flowers, mint, licorice, molasses, anise, brown spices, iron, game and tobacco grace the palate in a delicate, feminine Brunello that impresses for its overall balance and harmony. All the elements come together beautifully in the glass. The 1969 is now fully mature, although it has more than enough texture and Sangiovese acidity to hold on for another 5-10 years, perhaps a bit longer. The 1969 will always be more of a delicate Brunello with haunting, nuanced Sangiovese overtones and tons of personality. Reconditioned July 14, 2005.

Bottle number 00240. Re-corked 14 July 2005. Mature and just mid ruby with broad, bricky rim. Almost powerful nose of mulch yet still very reluctant to open up further, but with brooding sweetness. Iron and orange and really full on the nose without showing all of its depth yet, but not that much touched by oxidation! Mouthwatering acidity on the attack melting into the still-quite-closed fruit. Fine grip of powdery tannins. Still backward! Beautiful, elegant, medium palate weight and with just a little muscle of the tannins on the finish. Captivating. (WS)