The 1970 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a bit more forward in its aromas than flavors. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco and licorice open up in the glass, but overall the wine is marked by slightly advanced aromatics. There is plenty of intensity and depth in the glass. All things considered, the 1970 has held up well, although the competition is stiff in this tasting. Reconditioned June 22, 2007.

Bottle number 10524. Re-recorked 22 June 2007. Palish to mid mature ruby with broad amber rim. A wine that is much more marked by oxidation than the previous two. Gingerbread and dried-fruit notes and a little earthy. Improves much with aeration. Iron and pumpernickel. Rounder and perhaps just a little less dramatic than 1975 and 1971 on the palate. Almost mouthwatering acidity pulling together the dried fruit. Lovely grainy tannins. Perhaps a little past its best? (WS)