The 1975 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark, powerful and intense, with gorgeous depth and fabulous resonance. Dusty black cherries, smoke, spices, tobacco, game and earthiness flesh out in a broad, ample Brunello endowed with magnificent depth, power and intensity. Bright veins of acidity give the finish an extra kick of salinity, but overall this is a dark, brooding Brunello that shows the masculine side of Sangiovese. The textural impression is of unctuous and reminiscent of a demi-glace. The 1975 keeps getting better and better with time in the glass. There is no rush to drink the 1975. Well-stored or reconditioned bottles will drink well for another 10-15 years. This bottle was reconditioned on September 5, 2000.

The second Riserva personally overseen by Franco Biondi Santi arrived in a moderate season, with rainfalls in June and August, and a warm and dry July and September. This bottle was refilled once by Franco in either 2000 or 2001, according to the estate. The nose is savoury and full of complexity, with pot-pourri, tarmac and a nutty note. On the palate it shows a bit of the more rustic style of the 1970s, with grainy tannins and firm acidity, yet with a refreshing finish, typical of the estate. Drinking Window 2020 - 2025
Tasted by Aldo Fiordelli (at Tenuta Il Greppo, Montalcino, 28 Feb 2020)
Part of A Biondi Santi Riserva vertical

Tancredi Biondi Santi passed away in 1970, so the 1975 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva would have been one of the first riservas made entirely by his son, Franco Biondi Santi. Showing its age and maturity, the wine presents delicate aromas of balsam herb, coffee, caramel, licorice and candied orange peel. The primary fruit has faded, and the wine has shifted gears, exhibiting smoky and ethereal perfumes instead. In the mouth, this wine shows more volume and fiber than I might have expected, and there is even a subtle touch of roundness and volume on the finish. This is a beautiful snapshot of a bygone era in Tuscan wine.

The fruit for the Riserva comes exclusively from the oldest vines at the estate (over 25 years old). Aged in Slavonian oak for three years. La Storica refers to bottlings aged in the winery cellar for later release. This wine was re-corked and topped up in 2000 and 2020 with vintage 1975 wine. Still a remarkable mid garnet colour. Grouse, leather and dried red berries on the nose. The maturity is now clear in this wine, but there remains balance and some freshness. Earthen with tones of roasted beetroot, cigar leaf, saffron and truffles, it is wild, complex and very impressive. Sour dried cherry persists through the mid palate and, if anything, increases in intensity with air. There is a rich umami hit with each sip, but the vitality of this wine is the most impressive element. Great typicality and a wine that encapsulates why Biondi-Santi’s reputation is so high. (TP)

Unfortunately, Biondi Santi’s 1975 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was D.O.A.