You will notice the dedication printed below the label of the wine label. It reads: "Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi." Indeed, the Biondi-Santi 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the last vintage made by the towering father figure of Brunello whom most everyone referred to as the "gentleman of Montalcino." Il Dottore, as he was also respectfully addressed, died at age 91 in April 2013, and he was very active in the winery as this magnificent wine took shape. This Riserva is a true work of beauty. It is released one year later than usual. The wine reflects the natural heft and power of the 2012 vintage, and it also shows that distinctive open-knit and accessible personality that characterizes this warm and sunny growing season. Il Dottore's magic touch is revealed in the level of fine detail and precision that transcends vintage, grape and territory. That extreme focus is an achievement of this estate alone located in the celebrated Il Greppo property. This Brunello pours from the bottle with a magnificent garnet color, and it evolves in the glass with dark fruit, candied orange peel, spice, licorice, anise seed, cola and balsam herb. The aromas are magical and ethereal, albeit slightly ripe and soft as expected of this vintage.

Like opening an old cedar treasure box, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva evolves in the glass with dusty sage, cloves, musky dried strawberries and crushed violets. Further swirling unlocks nuances of black tea, plum sauce and crushed rocks. This multifaceted beauty washes across the palate with finesse, silky and refined, peppering the senses with saline minerals and tart red berries that add grippy tension as savory spices swirl throughout, and brisk acids maintain a marvelously fresh persona. Edgy tannins are left to linger, revealing the Riserva's still adolescent state, as a saturation of cranberry and hints of sour citrus slowly taper off. It took a full two hours for the 2012 to fully blossom, but once it did, it was pure magic. There are many years of positive evolution in store here for patient collectors.

Luminous garnet red. Perfumed nose of orange peel, cinnamon, sour red cherries, strawberries, talcum powder, and old fine leather, plus sneaky hints of slightly air-dried berries (not surprising, given how hot 2012 was, even taking into consideration that Biondi-Santi is one of the first estates to pick each year). Then juicy and dense with a silky mouthfeel to the flavors of red berries, blood orange and spices. Finishes long and silky now, but this specific Brunello Riserva was especially austere in its youth and so the estate decided to release it one year later than usual for sale. The wine carries an extra label “Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi” (dedicated to Franco Biondi Santi) who passed away in 2013; CEO Giampiero Bertolino explained to me that everyone at the estate believed this wine was a real snapshot of Franco and the Brunellos he most enjoyed drinking, and so it was decided to dedicate it to him. Actually, there’s an air-dried quality to this wine that is absolutely enchanting, if in my opinion not altogether typical of Franco’s work. No matter, it’s one of the top three Brunello Riservas of the 2012 vintage.

We had a backup, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This is still relatively youthful, a potent bouquet with Morello cherries, Clementines and cloves, developing more tertiary, almost leathery scents with aeration. The palate is well-balanced, with a keen line of acidity and a gentle grip in the mouth, finishing vivacious and slightly piquant. I would afford this another two or three years in bottle.

'Dedicato à Franco Biondi Santi' states the label – his last vintage before Franco Biondi Santi passed away April 2013. Bottle number 003267. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Brooding, deep cherry nose. Beautiful, elegant palate weight. Succulent, cherry fruit that becomes vibrant on the finish. Very long and still a little tight on the finish. Precise and balanced to perfection but still pretty much closed, with the rich layer of tannins taking the lead for now. (WS)