The estate's 2007 Lodovico is maturing at a faster pace than I had originally envisioned. White truffles, dark red stone fruits, spices leather and the first signs of tertiary complexity all flesh out in the glass. There is plenty of detail and nuance, but I don't see things improving too much from here.

Sweet tobacco with prunes and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with round tannins and a fresh herb and sweet ripe fruit. Long and intense. Slightly sweet fruit finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Drink now.

Amazing aromas of meat, mushroom, ripe fruit and treacle tart lead to a full body, with very polished tannins that coat every inch of the palate, where chocolate, grilled meat, currant and prune notes play out. A fascinating wine. Superb. From the creator of Ornellaia, Lodovico Antinori. Best after 2012. 665 cases made. (James Suckling)

The Cabernet Franc-based 2007 Lodovico bursts from the glass with layers of seamless dark fruit. Leather, licorice and sweet French oak add considerable depth and complexity in this dark, structured wine. This shows fabulous intensity through to the intense, powerful finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. (Antonio Galloni)

The 2007 Lodovico, sadly, is showing signs of Brettanomyces that proves a little too distracting. The blend here (and for the other editions of Lodovico) is mostly Cabernet Franc with Merlot (not always included), and some 10% to 15% Petit Verdot. This last variety is being used in greater percentages as we get to the newer vintages. This edition shows sour fruit notes followed by smoked bacon and Bresaola. You might still catch a glimpse of its promise, but if you have a bottle in your cellar you might already be too late.