The 2017 Biserno is a prototypical modern Bolgheri red built on explosive power and textural intensity. Rich and ample, with tons of pure richness, the 2017 Biserno is so alluring. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot is exceptionally vivid and beautiful today. Dark fruit, espresso, cloves and new French oak build into a crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. It will drink well for another decade or so, but I don’t get the impression of a wine built for the long haul.

This is the headline wine from Lodovico Antinori's Tenuta di Biserno. The hot vintage 2017 Lodovico shows a rich and deeply saturated color with elegant tones of dark fruit, spice, rum cake, dried plum, jerky, charred meat and cured tobacco. Like the Biserno (which is also a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot), this special vineyard selection reveals slightly less depth and dimension in terms of mouthfeel. That more compact palate is a common feature of the 2017 vintage in which hard work and severe fruit selection was achieved in order to counter the jammy concentration of the berries. This remains a big wine, however, with the balanced and bright acidity that is a crucial indicator of the wine's undeniable quality and pedigree.