The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a powerhouse, but it takes some time to truly come to life in the glass. It smolders up with a darkly alluring and earth-inspired mix of plum sauce, grilled sage, crushed rocks, cardamom and tobacco. This is velvety-smooth and rich on the palate, washing waves of mineral-inflected tart berries over a core of crisp saline-tinged acidity. The result is a sensation of vivacity, both intense yet full of tension, as the 2012 finishes with a tannic bite and notions of tart cherry that linger on and on. This is still on the road to maturity, and with a bright future in store for patient collectors.

Bright medium red. Flint and tar complicate aromas of strawberry and tobacco. Sweet and lush on the palate, showing outstanding lift and floral perfume to the wild red cherry and herbal flavors. Rich, deep and very well balanced, this finishes long with subtly building sweetness and lovely floral lift. Superb Brunello.

NB vintage. Mid crimson. Solid and fresh though I'm not sure it's any better than the 2013 regular bottling – maybe just a tad more concentrated. Rather dry finish. (JR)