The deep, sensual 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wafts up with spice-dusted cherries, sweet herbs and hints of flowery undergrowth. It fills the senses with rich yet tart black raspberries and exotic spice, along with a hint of citrus that sends sparks across the palate, creating a pliant yet nicely chiseled effect. The 2016 tapers off like a black hole of structure, turning quite savory but with a coating of fine tannin that seems to devour the coating of primary fruits beneath it. Masses of tobacco and brown spice linger. The sheer density, amazing minerality and balanced acidity make the 2016 Riserva an extremely exciting wine.

Maturing ruby with narrow bricky rim. Closed and a little reductive on the nose, but the great depth of fruit is evident and with aeration opens up. Concentrated, almost rich fruit core on the palate with firm but polished tannins and lots of juice on the finish. Already quite gorgeous. (WS)