. Readers who understandably don’t want to delay gratification should consider the 2003 Caberlot. Less aromatically compelling than the 2004, it bursts forth from the glass with masses of super-ripe, jammy fruit on a full-bodied, generous frame with notably fine tannins for the vintage. Made in a style that borders on the extreme edge of opulence, the full-throttle 2003 won’t please every palate, but I found myself captivated by its sheer luxuriousness. It is a remarkably accessible Caberlot at this stage, although my impression is that, like other vintages of this wine, it may start to shut down in the bottle of over the next year or so. It is a stunning effort.

Hand-numbered magnum number 304 of 2,170 produced. Date of harvest: 13 September 2003 . Youthful, impenetrable ruby. Balsamic nose with black olive, graphite and hint of dried fruit and leather. Black tea. Amazingly fresh and lively for this vintage, but closes up quite suddenly on the finish. Needs much more time. (WS)