Of these new releases from this benchmark estate, the Casanova di Neri 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is my favorite wine. This Riserva is larger than life with ripe fruit, raspberry, cherry, spice, cola, root beer, mesquite and cedar. The wine offers a flashy and generous quality of fruit that unfolds over time with a multifaceted and multi-layered presentation. One thing that stands out here is the acidity that is bracing and tart at first but then succumbs to an important supporting role, rendering lasting freshness and persistence to the finish. With time, you get a flash of cherry and crème de cassis that seals the deal.

First vinified as a single vineyard in 1981, and bottled as a Riserva until 1993, Cerretalto comes from an iron-rich marly site in the far east of Montalcino. Slow ripening, it is always the last plot to be harvested. While demonstrating some of its typical youthful austerity, the 2015 has a bit more flesh and baby fat than usual but it is still recognisably Cerretalto, with its mineral-driven, powerfully structured palate. Aromas are redolent of vanilla, balsam, smoke and dark chocolate, while the palate offers blackberry and black currants. Lively acidity pierces the fruit intensity. I wouldn't touch it for another three years.

Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Lifted, balsamic cherry fruit interwoven with hints of cinnamon bark. Lush, juicy fruit with bags of crunchy tannins. Long and hedonistic. (WS)