The Casanova di Neri 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto (with the black label) opens to medium-plus concentration, dark fruit, ferrous earth and black licorice. You get a lot of detail on the bouquet. This is a big wine with all muscle and no fat. It concludes with smoky barbecue, cola and pressed blue flower. These ethereal aromas appear only after the wine has been in the glass for a while. Rich concentration wraps over the palate but imparts no residual heaviness. This wine has great capacity to age, but I love Cerretalto when its primary fruit is still apparent (10 to 20 years in). Production is 9,700 bottles. The Cerretalto will not be made in 2020.

Impenetrable, deep ruby. Savoury, minerally notes and subdued cherry fruit that is almost a little bloody. Just a suggestion of sweet oak in the background. Lush, succulent, deep cherry fruit that furls on the finish but with almost endless aromatic lingering. Tons of gripping, sandpapery tannins that still need to integrate with the fruit. A dramatic wine. (WS)