The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino is dreamy, with a confectionary burst of sweet spice and vivid crushed black cherries complemented by rosy florals. It's juicy, opening with a sweet and sour sensation as hints of cranberry and tart citrus give way to a tactile coating of crunchy mineral tones toward the close. This resonates with tension, long and staining with a tinge of bitter blackberry and tangerine that pucker the cheeks as edgy tannins frame the finish. Gorgeous.

The Casanova di Neri 2020 Brunello di Montalcino (with the white label) represents a departure from the norm. Because the Cerretalto was not produced, fruit from that vineyard with its reddish mineral-rich soils was directed here instead. For that reason, this wine is especially spicy, lifted and intense. Dark cherry fruit is followed by rusty nail, black pepper and milled spice. The wine is fermented in steel tanks, sees 20 days of skin maceration and ages in botte and tonneaux for over three years. The oak is very well integrated. This is a wine of character (with 98,000 bottles made).