A more exotic side of this site emerges from the 2008 L’Apparita. According to Marco Pallanti, the weather was quite warm in 2008. Rain towards the end of the season was more problematic for the later-ripening varieties, but that was not an issue for the Merlot. Black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice overtones add to an impression of darkness. Silky, beautifully ripe tannins and unctuous fruit with the natural richness that is achieved in late harvests add to the wine’s considerable appeal. This is one of my favorite wines of the afternoon.

Big and velvety with loads of dark fruit and milk chocolate. Full body, with velvety tannins and a decadent finish. Like chocolate mousse at the end. Turns very, very delicious. Loving this. The classic, pure Merlot from Chianti Classico. Drink now or hold.

The 2008 L’Apparita (Merlot) is very, very beautiful. This is a gorgeous vintage for the Apparita. Sweet dark cherries, chocolate, mint, licorice and spices are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. The 2008 possesses striking inner perfume and sweetness. The 2008 is a decidedly mid-weight vintage, but it works. Graceful and elegant through to the long finish, the 2008 Apparita is a wine that convinces for its balance and overall sense of harmony. This bottle is far better than the two examples I tasted last year. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. AG

A tightly wound, linear red, with floral, black cherry, black currant, earth and mineral flavors shored up by edgy tannins. Balanced in a lean way, with a vibrant, resonant finish. Merlot.