Extremely perfumed with violets and crushed raspberries, as well as wet earth and spice. Full body. Linear and chewy with racy tannins and fruit tension. Wild finish. Pure merlot. Needs time to open. Try after 2021.

The 2016 L'Apparita is a standout wine. A true symbol of the vintage, the wine shows the classic lines and extreme precision we can expect from 2016, with the plump, ripe generosity of the Merlot grape (when farmed in the right hands of course). The wine is profound, rich and beautifully concentrated with power but no residual heaviness. I went back to this sample a few times in the 12 hours after I popped the cork, and the wine was more beautiful each time. It offers a profound sense of beauty, harmony and Merlot purity now, and it should evolve slowly and softly in the coming years.

This 100% Merlot from Gaiole in Chianti was Tuscany's first, back in 1985. This 2016 benefited from naturally low yields. Clay scented with blue fruits and chocolate, it combines juicy acidity with ripe fruits and silky texture. It has developed a savoury edge with bottle age yet remains vibrant and fresh. Long, salty and gastronomic.