Dark cherries, plums, mocha, dark spices and leather flesh out in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. Layered and voluptuous in the glass, the 2009 is one of the best early drinking Brunellos I have ever tasted from Cerbaiona. Clean veins of minerality and graphite wrap around the fruit on the expressive finish. This is a strong showing from one of Montalcino's great artisan estates.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino shows the signature sophistication this iconic estate is celebrated for. Sadly, Diego and Nora Molinari have announced their intention to sell Cerbaiona and we may soon be looking at new ownership. A dark appearance segues to brooding aromas of licorice, tar, cherry and spice that wrap around the long, polished finish. Drink: 2016-2024. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., www.rarewineco.com

Moderately saturated red. Aromas of black cherry, licorice, menthol and quinine, along with a slightly funky note of faded flowers and tar and underbrush nuances. Dense and chewy but a bit folded in on itself today, with reticent red and darker fruit flavors complemented by a flinty nuance, but there's also a weedy green note I'm not wild about. Finishes with good breadth and youthfully chewy tannins, as well as notes of wet herbal underbrush and raisin. This is usually one of my favorite Brunellos of all, but this 2009 does not strike me as one of the better vintages made by talented owner Diego Molinari. Tasted three different times with similar results.

Savoury and a hint of horse saddle. I would decant this. Serious, tannic fruit palate that is just beginning to open up. Earthy cherry finish but still very closed. (WS)