The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a dazzling wine. The aromatics alone are haunting. Sweet red cherries, rosemary, sage, tobacco and cedar are woven into a fabric of nearly indescribable elegance. Costanti’s straight Brunello can sometimes lack a little depth in its fruit, but not in 2006. This totally complete, harmonious Brunello is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. It is a stunner. As delicious as the wine is now, it really needs at least a handful of years for the firm tannins to start melting away. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. When Andrea Costanti’s wines are on – as they are here – they are among the most enjoyable of the entire appellation. The slightly updated yet traditional style is immensely appealing. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino pulls you close to the glass with a captivating bouquet of rich plum and strawberry preserves, complemented by autumnal spices and a whiff of shaved cedar. Its 15 years of maturity has softened the blow of the aggressive tannins that once dominated this wine, now revealing an array of ripe wild berries, sour citrus and exotic florals that both soothe and stimulate the palate. It’s still lightly structured and working its way up to the peak of maturity, at this time creating a perfect frame for the beautiful fruit found within. This remains persistent yet fresh, resonating on nuances of licorice and hints of red currant. Readers will enjoy the 2006 for many years to come.

Good deep, full red. Knockout nose offers black fruits, licorice, curry powder and rose oil, plus a hint of leather; Musigny meets Barbaresco. Silky and sweet, but with terrific grip and class. Conveys an impression of density and thickness without weight. Wonderfully tactile wine with a savory, mineral-driven finish and outstanding saline persistence. Built to age, and yet this wine is impeccably balanced from day one.

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a dazzling wine. The aromatics alone are haunting. Sweet red cherries, rosemary, sage, tobacco and cedar are woven into a fabric of nearly indescribable elegance. Costanti’s straight Brunello can sometimes lack a little depth in its fruit, but not in 2006. This totally complete, harmonious Brunello is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. It is a stunner. As delicious as the wine is now, it really needs at least a handful of years for the firm tannins to start melting away. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. -Antonio Galloni