A first whiff evokes autumn woodlands – moist earth, fragrant undergrowth and toasted chestnut. It progresses confidently with flair. Ripe cherry and redcurrant burst from the core with background notes of cocoa dusted herbs. Layers of refined tannins are intricately and tightly knit, while bracing acidity imparts levity. The finish reverberates with a distinct mineral sensation. I am not sure this will outlive the estate’s stunning 2016 (the last Riserva release), however it will be a true pleasure to assess the two side by side during their long-distance journey.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva displays all of the characteristics of the vintage that make this year truly special. Darkly floral and captivating, it exudes class with a radiant blend of dried black cherries, sage, lavender, hints of pine and a cooling whiff of white smoke. This balances depths of ripe red berry fruit with sweet spices and violet inner florals, all accelerated by brilliant acidity. Tactile mineral tones add a crunchy sensation, while a balsamic tinge and cranberry hints offer a pleasantly tart resonance, finishing long, structured and completely classic.

We have not seen this estate produce a Riserva in a few years. The Conti Costanti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers an open-knit fruit profile with budding tertiary aromas that add complexity. You get dried cherry and baked plum. The wine is drinking nicely right now thanks to its tapered, medium-plus mouthfeel. There is a hint of sour cherry along with savory spice from careful oak aging. Production is 9,000 bottles.

Concentrated mid ruby. Quite tight and subdued on the nose with saline, minerally notes. Fine, polished sour-cherry fruit perfectly balanced by fine but firm tannins. Great depth of fruit yet not heavy at all. Long, chewy tannins. Extremely long, structured and almost a little tense – this needs time to unwind. (WS)