Castello Romitorio's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is distinctly savory and mineral, with the fruit pushed to the back. Smoke, tobacco, herbs, flowers and dried cherries open up in the glass, but the 2010 remains a bit compact today, with incisive tannins that need to settle down. Crushed rose petals mint and leather add nuance on the perfumed finish. If the 2010 fleshes out it may merit a higher rating in the future, but at this stage it remains a bit compact.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a gorgeous expression that will appeal to those who adore the softer and spicier side of Sangiovese. Bold cherry and blackberry stand to immediate attention with secondary aromas of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon in quick succession. The wine delivers more in terms of boldness and power than it does complexity but the overall effect works beautifully considering the quality of fruit in 2010. The style is upfront and bold with deep layers of richness and opulence. The wine is appropriate for medium-term consumption and would pair beautifully with stewed meats.

Maturing mid ruby with orange tinges. Brooding nose of dark fruit with a hint of cigar box and vanilla. Bold chewy tannins make it a little rustic and dry, while the fruit is fresh and concentrated. (WS)