The estate's 2007 Syrah Migliara, from an old-vine plot, impresses for its detail, nuance and clarity. In many ways it reminds me of Angelo Gaja's Sorì Tildìn in its jewel-like precision and multi-faceted personality. Impossibly fine, ripe tannins frame perfumed red fruit, mint, minerals and spices all the way through to a sublime, eternal finish that seems to never end. What a thrill it will be to follow this wine in the coming years. Readers will have a hard time not opening this now, but the Migliara should be even better in a few years. Today it is merely magnificent. Stylistically the Migliara is more refined than Il Bosco.

(100% syrah; 14.5% alcohol; from selected parcels of vines planted in 1990) Good full ruby. Aromatic nose offers scents of red raspberry, violet, incense and pine needles and is more restrained and fresher than that of Il Bosco. On entry, red and black cherry flavors of considerable sweetness are buffered by sound acidity and lifted by a minty topnote. Finishes with noble tannins and a lingering floral note. This is altogether different than Il Bosco-in a more refined style-but not necessarily better. Christine Vernay of Domaine Georges Vernay has recently begun consulting here (along with Luca Currado of Vietti in the vineyard) and the results speak loud and clear. (There's also a very good 2008 viognier here, in a Condrieu style, called Fontarca.)