The 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve is fabulous. Dark, sensual and enveloping, the 2017 captures the essence of the house style in its textural richness and baritone inflections. Black cherry, plum, spice, new leather, licorice and chocolate infuse the 2017 with tremendous richness. The 2017 spent 18 months in barrique followed by 6 months in cask, the same aging regime as the Vigna del Sorbo, but with a bit more new oak. That approach worked very well, as the Flaccianello stands out for its exceptional textural elegance and finesse. It is a positively stellar wine.

Very high-toned and muscular red with crushed cherries, blackberries and walnuts. Some dried earth. It’s full-bodied and chewy with solid tannins that form the wine. Beautiful ripe fruit in the center palate. Needs time to soften. Try after 2022.

The Fontodi 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve is a standout wine of the dry vintage. This pure Sangiovese opens to a dark garnet color with more visible concentration and density compared to recent past editions. This is a beautiful wine with pliant tannins, dark fruit richness, balanced acidity and a fruit-forward 15% alcohol content. The wine is big and bold when weighed on the Flaccianello scale (and even more so when weighed on the Sangiovese scale) with dark cherry, plum, spice, violet, chalk and campfire ash. Despite that power and inner opulence, this wine adds that zesty Sangiovese character with fresh acidity and an energized approach. This Flaccianello is whole and complete with the natural firmness and structure to hold it steady during the aging process. A small part of amphorae-aged fruit is added to the blend.

There's fine purity to the black cherry, black currant and blackberry flavors in this expressive red, with refined tannins. Everything is in the right proportion as this remains vibrant and focused, with iron and oak spice accents adding depth as this builds to a lingering aftertaste. BS

A selection of the best grapes from Fontodi's highest altitude parcels in Panzano's Conca d'Oro. Manetti maintains that the spring frost helped lighten the vines' load, allowing the remaining grapes to continue ripening even during torrid conditions. Macerated cherry and blackberry compote are nuanced by dried thyme and grilled fennel. New wood adds hints of vanilla and spice box. The palate is robust and firm, though the tannins are refined and tangy acidity brightens the whole. An excellent showing from this challenging year. Needs time.

100% Sangiovese. Impenetrable, deep ruby. Nose of cigar box with saline hints underpinned by concentrated dark cherry, that is still a little brooding. Succulent dark-cherry and raspberry fruit palate with fantastic gravelly tannins that make their presence felt on the finish. Still not at its peak. (WS)