The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is one of the most backward editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Dark and almost somber, the Vigna del Sorbo packs a ton of intensity in its deceptively mid-weight frame. In many vintages, Vigna del Sorbo is quite showy in its youth. That is not at all the case with the 2020, a wine that will require many years to be at its best. Hints of lavender, dried herbs, plum and graphite appear over time, but the 2020 is very clearly an infant. There is a feeling of youthful austerity (in a positive sense) that I find quite alluring. The 2020 Sorbo is a wine for those who can wait. Antonio Galloni

Aromas of stems, dried meat, berries and cherries with some dusty earth. The palate is firm and fresh with a brightness and chewiness. It shows some cement and stone texture to it. James Suckling.

Showing enormous precision and direction, the 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo (with 25,000 bottles released) is a generous expression of Sangiovese that boasts singular intensity. This organic wine offers black fruit, grilled rosemary, pressed rose and crushed limestone. All of these aromas enjoy special, forward-moving intensity that dovetails into the ample fruit generosity that this sun-filled vintage will be remembered for. Monica Larner.

First produced in 1985, Vigna del Sorbo sits alongside Flaccianello at the apex of Fontodi’s range. It was elevated from Riserva to Gran Selezione with the introduction of the category in 2014. The vineyard extends over eight hectares with the oldest plantings now well over 50 years old. The 2020 is slow to reveal itself – even with coaxing, aromas aren’t completely forthcoming. Eventually, subtle hints of sundried tomato and grilled herbs evolve to darker tones of violet and liquorice. True to its western Panzano origins, the framework is firm and sturdy. Tight with a concentrated core but not overly dense, there's a richness to the tannins. Finishes with savoury black plum and toast. Michaela Morris.