This is a superb set of releases and I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. There are only 900 bottles of the 2004 Colore, a blend of 70% Canaiolo, and 30% Colorino. It is a soft, supple effort endowed with plush dark cherry fruit and an accessible personality, with awesome elegance and notable overall balance. The Colore is a selection made from the estate’s three best barrels, two of the Canaiolo and one of the Colorino. It is another stunning wine from Bibi Graetz. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Importer: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Canaiolo, Colorino. Graetz says no Sangiovese was used in the blend. A very fine vintage in Tuscany – substantially superior to the same year in Bordeaux or Burgundy. The summer was warm, but not hot. In October temperatures soared, encouraging a later harvest with fully ripe grapes and complex aromatics. Distinctly raisined on the nose, soft on the palate and lacking a little bit of lift. Still drinking well, this seems to be waning a little – now’s probably the time to be drinking up. (AH)